Try and keep to a budget! It is extremely easy to become overwhelmed at the mass and the variety of material. Sellers will want to give you credit if you have dealt with them in the past. Before you know it you are well over budget. They know the shows are the best time to sell their wares to a captive audience, especially when the economy is in such turmoil. Think about this a moment, you have people ready to buy your merchandise, your best shot to set your income for the year is at hand and you have a return customer you trust. The decision becomes easy for the seller, extend a little credit now and have money coming in for the next few months. This is an excellent solution to the economic crunch, but this can be  tragedy for the uninformed buyer. If you should default, you run the risk of losing a supplier and maybe a friend. Be vigilant of sellers you do not know or ones which are not readily accessible by phone or email or change the prices unfavorably during a sale.

Everyone should keep this in mind, as a buyer or seller you represent more than just yourself. I had one seller that said I could pick what I wanted and then started taking things back as I went to check out. I promptly left everything and bought from another dealer! Your actions can influence how the buyer or seller may react to the next customer and certainly will be discussed at the campfire later on. I always try to leave a buyer or seller with a feeling they want to see me the next time I pass by. This will also go a long way the next time you negotiate a deal with that buyer and possibly many of their friends.

Another tip to buyers which I strongly suggest you heed, is to deal with the owner of the booth and make certain you and the seller have a clear understanding of what is and what is not for sale. Some items are purchased by the seller at the show and may not be for sale; this can be embarrassing for both parties and often ends with someone being unhappy.

When in Quartzsite, stop in Prospectors Panorama and see the World Famous Quartz Museum, owned by Danny Duke an entrepreneur elite. Danny, Ashearah, and Ben are fabulous people and a wealth of knowledge as well as having some of the most magnificent Amethyst Geodes I have ever seen. Check upcoming articles to read more about how he got started and progressed to one of the largest importers of rocks in the United States.

In closing the link below will take you to a photo gallery of some of the beautiful material I purchased on this trip to Arizona. Have fun and “keep ona rockin me baby” as quoted by Steve Miller.

http://minermattersgazette.com/?page_id=3&album=6&gallery=6

A partial list of material purchased on my recent trip:

Opalized Australian Petrified Wood, Fossil Coral, Rolling Hills Dolomite, Rainforest Jasper, Extra Thick Tiger Eye, Blue Streak Tiger Eye, Dynasty Jasper, Exotica Jasper, Spider Web Obsidian, Chrysocolla, Peanut Wood, Tempskya Fern Wood, Dragon Agate from Brazil, Mookaite, Namibian Sodalite with Hackmanite,  and AAA Grade Willow Creek Jasper!

Look for these and other high Quality rocks on:

http://www.dragonsayeauctions.com/shop.php?name=Dragons-Den&user_id=100002

Buying up the West Part 1

A friend of mine in collaboration with a design engineer and marketed through Kingsley North Inc., has hit the lapidary world by storm. After several decades of lapidary work, I had wished for someone to devise a way to eliminate the need for changing the water in the trays so often. That singular problem presented other problems with the quality of workmanship which in turn required additional hours of rework of material. As we all have noticed, if the water is not clean on the conventional geyser type machines, you will introduce fine particles of material to a stone you are working, possibly scratching the newly exposed surface. At the very least, the sludge will eventually cause the pumping mechanism to become clogged requiring down time to remedy. This is of a major concern when you have a number of stones to produce. The developers of CabKing have engineered a way for a continuous flow of clean water as well as a way for the contaminated water to be removed, allowing for a more user friendly machine. I have purchased this product and found it to be everything it was promised to be. If there was anything I would change about the machine, it would be to use a better quality of polishing wheels. I am completely spoiled and have already sold all of my previous machines and replaced them with multiple CABKING’s. Below is a copy of the ad directly from Kingsley North Inc.

Click here to send an email for a Kingsley North sales representative to contact you directly.

CabKing A complete 6” diamond grinding/polishing machine, has a 1/4 hp, single phase, 110/115 volt, 1800 rpm, 60hz AC motor, a 30 watt, 605 GPH, 110/115 volt pump. With a 6 watt, 12 volt, single bayonet lamp. Features: A direct drive motor and separate submersible pump to reduce maintenance. Individual on/off water shut off valves above each wheel, also for right and left hand grinding/polishing pads (no cross-contamination of grit) allows easy of movement from wheel to wheel to disc. A drainage system to eliminate having a constantly discard pan water. Heavy-duty base board, aluminum splash hoods with adjustable clear splash shields, plastic pad with drain holes, comes with four side splash guards, and two front hand metal rests. Plastic apron, wrench, clear plastic goggles, complete instructions. One (1) each 6” x 1-1/2” #80 and #220 metal bonded diamond grinding wheels, (4) 6” x 1-1/2” diamond resin bond wheels, (1) each #280, #600, #1200, and #3000, a 6” #360 no hole 1/4-20 right hand threaded diamond flat lap and a 5-1/2” 1/4-20 right hand canvas polishing pad with 2 grams of syringe of 14,000 diamond paste compound. One year warranty. Overall size is 27” long x 13” deep x 12” high.

Most of today’s students would probably say it is a country in the Middle East. But as Lapidarist we know they are one of Earth’s Hidden Treasures. What most people take for Granite, we seek out and explore the realm of the unknown creating works of art.

The following pages are an attempt to glean from my many years of experience and the knowledge of our fellow enthusiast’s to describe the rocks we find so intriguing. Please send me a note through the contact page if you should discover any incorrect descriptions.

This writer has been collecting minerals and doing some slabbing and polishing for about a year, but obviously much was left to be learned. But a Good Samaritan was to offer us a weekend of “on-the-job” training during which the basics of creating from a rock, a semiprecious stone worthy of jewelry. The generous one was “Dragon”, James Madej of Pasadena, Maryland, a completely bald and heavily tattooed gentle soul who drove, at his expense, 600 miles to our home in Lexington, N.C. Dragon, owner with wife, Donna, of Dragonsaye Auctions, even brought his six-wheel Genie lapping machine for this tinhorn to use, of course, under Dragon’s tutelage.

We had purchased a fresh-off-the-line Lortone Model TS10-C 10” trim saw which was not assembled until Dragon’s Saturday arrival. We, of course, were quite eager to leave the mechanics of the weekend to Dragon, whose demanding eye is absolutely uncompromising, both as a lapidary instruction and equipment builder. Our only role in the process was to act as Dragon’s “gofer”. Often, we even managed to foul up in the processing of these relatively minor chores. Our teacher, however, was quick to point out our mistakes and guide us in the right direction.

His instruction in the art of cutting, cabbing and polishing a rock into a work of art, however, far surpassed those directed at his 71-year-old, slightly arthritic “gofer”. But his friendship, humor and camaraderie were always present and used with supreme effect to calm the searing nerves of his student.

Dragon spent his weekend 600 miles or so from his lovely bride and beloved Springer Spaniel with this beginner at his own expense. As he departed, we waved our adieus from the driveway shortly before 6 p.m. Monday. After a few more friendly jibes between business acquaintances, we acknowledged that what had begun as a business arrangement had turned into a budding friendship. We look forward to learning even more from this most knowledgeable gentleman as, it is hoped, we will see slow but obvious improvements in our efforts at turning rocks into works of art. The picture below is my very first cabochon under James’s instruction.

It was a most incredible weekend!

Cheers,
George

Julie-Thomas Designs

June 2009

I scribe a series of axial lines over the face of the cab with an aluminum scribe. I make these up from a 6″ length of aluminum 1/8″ welding rod, and sharpen the point on the genie from time to time. I usually make what amounts to a 6 or 8 pointed star (looks like a star sapphire) covering the entire top of the cab.I do this once just before I leave the 220g galaxy wheel, and once again as I’m finishing up with 280 nova wheel.

Once you have the scribe marks on your domed cab face, do another quick once over on the entire cab face on the 280 nova, making sure to keep your wrists in constant motion, never allowing the cab to sit still as you are against the wheel. Even while the cab is wet, it is a snap to see any residual scribe marks, which is a sure sign that there is a flat spot in that area.

Before I start sanding on the 600 wheel, I will dry the cab completely, and check to see that the entire surface is a consistent 280g matt surface with no deeper marks showing, and no remaining traces of the scribe marks. This is also an excellent time to spot and treat any partially healed fractures or tiny flaws with a drop of hot stuff, or similar crack sealer. Once your sealer has dried, re-sand the surface of the cab on the 280 nova wheel, before moving on to the 600g and finer wheels. I advocate sealing any cracks, because It will help keep the polish out of the cracks at the final stage.

After the pre-polish on 3000g wheel, I dry the cab again, and attempt to read the reflection of the printing from the face of my 60w incandescent light bulb, which should be clean and crisp on the surface of the cab as I rotate it under the work light, with no variations from any location on the cab. Now I can go to polish, with no reservations, and very few disappointments.

Incidentally, this scribe can be laid flat on the table, and you can scribe a uniform girdle thickness line on the side of your cab preform. With a backed stone, or a double domed cab, I sometimes scribe down from the top face, as well, to get a cut line for the backing material.

The process is straightforward; hold the scribe still, and drag the girdle of your preform against the point of the scribe, and rotate the preform, until you have a line all the way around. The Aluminum rod is ideal, as it is bright and easy to see on any colored stone, and it’s ultra soft, so it won’t be scratching your 5-6 hardness stones, but rather, it will leave a nice easy to see mark, even under the water spritzer.

If you want to scribe a thicker girdle line, you can lay your scribe flat on a shim. I usually use one of my cab templates to elevate the scribe off the table a bit, as needed.

Page 2 Pictorial How to Remove Flat Spots

Happy Cabbing!!!

Tom

Show a picture of your workbench, finished material, or storage area. It doesn’t matter whether it is immaculate or not, but it does give the customer a reassurance you are who you say you are. Especially, in this day when disposable income is less than what we have been accustomed to, people are more cautious when spending their hard earned money.

Spell out your policies. No one likes to be surprised with rules they were not aware of. By placing your policies in as many places within your store you are more likely to have the customer read them. Granted not everyone will before making a purchase, but if the occasion arises from a customer, you have a better chance of winning the dispute if the policies are repeated throughout your store. Here is a good example: I am one of those buyers that doesn’t read the fine print when buying, but I do read the sellers profile and their, “About this Store”. One seller had some unusual demands written in their store description, which was also in their shipping requirement, but I did not read. Luckily, I read the bio and saved myself some unforeseen problems.

This area is also an excellent way to inform customers if you are willing to act as a specialty buyer, contact information, address to your website, or if your inventory is so large it would be difficult to post all of what you have available. Review your data and pay attention to spelling errors and common grammatical mistakes. No one expects you to be an English major, however, you should always check your statements for fact and common mistakes.

Buy following these basic guidelines you will create a defined and informative article which will enable you customers to feel more at ease in doing business with you.

Dragon

1. 2. 3.

4. 5. 6.

6a 7. 8.

9. 10. 11.

12. 13. 14.

15. 16. 17.

18. 19. 20

21. 22. 23.

24. 25. 26.

27. 28. 29.

29. 30. 31.

31. 31. 32.

33. 34. 35.

The above definitions have been obtained from the U.S. Geological Service as well as Wikipedia and the Webster Colligate Dictionary.

This article is designed to enlighten the lapidary community to the potential for health risk when working with some of the materials of the trade. Many of us have been doing this for so long we have become complacent with how we do certain tasks. I am putting forth this newsletter as a gentle reminder, what we should know and to ensure that all newcomers are aware of these potential hazards. In all major industries, the government has established a standard for health and safety. Usually overseen by OSHA or MOSHA, it is up to the individual manufacturer to comply and enforce the guidelines. Many lapidarists are unaware of the potential health risks associated with this industry. Unfortunately, rocks do not come with warning labels and no specific guidelines have been established for our safety. It is my goal to compile a list of materials, which could pose some type of health risk, either by working the material or in the final stages of manufacturing our products. I have worked for a major chemical corporation for over 35 years, during which time, I have been taught what materials I work with are dangerous, how to handle spills, environmental issues, and the use of personal protective equipment. I believe I can use this training to evaluate our processes and materials to formulate a comprehensive and useful guide to enjoy what we do, more safely. By all means, this does not make me an expert. As with any guideline, adherence to State and Federal laws must be followed, as well as, common sense practiced.

Personal Protective Equipment or PPE

During our daily routines exposure to many different types of health risks attack our bodies in subtle ways. The big one in the news today is second hand smoke. However, other more deadly and less easily detected ones lurk in the shadows. Ultraviolet rays, carbon monoxide, and viruses to name a few. It would seem impractical to wear a mask as we completed our daily tasks, as well as somewhat unfashionable. Most of us enjoy the surroundings of an office, which allows for the air to be filtered, being shaded from the effects of the sun and sanitizers to minimize the risk of transferring diseases. Therefore, we should attempt to assimilate these practices into our chosen pastime or second career.

How many of us wear a dust mask when working on cutting stones? The first response I hear is, “Well it’s wet so there isn’t any dust. Why would I need one?” Exactly, it is wet and prolonged exposure to water vapor is introduced into the lungs, carrying with it, microscopic particles of the material you are working and the risk of pneumonia. Not too much of a risk? Think about the material; malachite, for example, this is a copper based mineral. The health risk is then elevated from just having water content, to water with an accumulative toxin, which over a period of time can cause unwanted health issues. Azurite, Malachite, and Turquoise are copper base ores, and some of the most frequently used in the hobby.

There four areas of major concern; respiratory, sight, hearing, and hand safety. There are ways to minimize the risk to our health through proper engineering of the workspace, the availability on hand for the proper safety equipment and the knowledge when the equipment is needed.

Hand Safety:

Rough rock has a tendency to have sharp edges, especially obsidian. A thick leather palm glove is best when handling most rocks to be sawn or when removing slabs from the drying bin. When washing obsidian be exceptionally careful of points where the saw stopped and the slab fell from the host rock. There is a reason why ancient civilizations used obsidian for cutting tools.
Use Dop sticks to polish your stones. Your hand can easily slip while holding a stone and receive a nasty cut or burn from the grinding wheel. If you really cannot adapt to the Dop stick method, then prepare for your fair share of wheel cuts and abrasions. When using pickle baths or etching acids, make sure you wear some type of rubber glove to reduce the risk of contact with the skin. Remember a clean workstation, free of clutter and scrap material is the first step to performing the task safely!

Protective Eye Ware:

It doesn’t take much to damage the eye sufficiently that it will not recover. Safety glasses should be worn when using any saw or grinder. Small chips will often pop up and out from the blade. If you are trimming a cab design, these chips will often strike the face and possibly the eye. It is suggested to use a face shield in conjunction with safety glasses for the added protection for the face. If you use acids or caustic type cleaners it is best to combine each of the above with the use of goggles as well. I know this appears to be overkill, however in my line of work, these practices have saved my eyes more than once, certainly a small price to pay for a lifetime of sight.

Hearing Protection:

Now you say aren’t you going just a bit far? I won’t be able to hear the phone or my kids. This may be so, but you are exposed to higher than normal decibels while grinding. Prolonged exposure to decibels higher than 90 decibels can produce permanent hearing loss. You don’t become used to the noise, this is a warning you are loosing your hearing. Disposable ear plugs, which can be bough at nearly any pharmacy or home supply store, are very inexpensive, easy to use, and worth there weight in gold. Simply buy the economy package and keep them right on the workbench in a sealed jar.

Respiratory Protection

What about ventilation? Does this mean, if we open a door or window, we’re covered? Many of us use some type of repair adhesive in the process to correct minor flaws and setting stones. The warning labels clearly state to use in a, “well ventilated area.” Window fans blowing outward or exhaust fans with open windows or doors are the more prudent way to go.
Respirators come in a variety of types, each for a specific function. Certainly it would not be prudent to purchase a full-face respirator when a partial respirator, fitted with the proper cartridges would do as well. In most cases a dust mask, like many contractors use, will suffice when cutting or grinding stones. However, I would advise each of you to see what type of chemicals you use in your specific area of interest and purchase a cartridge respirator with a supply of cartridges suited for the chemicals you are using!
Another way to make your shop well ventilated would be to design an exhaust system directly adjacent to the area where the harmful chemicals are to be used. To accomplish this your local home improvement center can recommend which exhaust system would best suit your need.

That just about sums up the basics of PPE and creating a safe workshop, be sure to look for more articles on tips of the trade and minor maintenance of shop equipment in the upcoming newsletters.

Materials of Concern:

If anyone would like to author an article, please fill out the Submission Form

1. Size – If you are cutting a stone for a piece of jewelry, that gigantic stone with the wonderful color and pattern might be beautiful, but size means weight, larger and thicker bezels and settings that will have to be fabricated piecemeal. You may end up having to settle for a desk piece or a display case stone.
2. Shape – Don’t go wild with your cabochon or faceted shape. Funky shapes are cool and interesting, but they may be the devil to cut and polish, and almost impossible to construct a setting to fit. When I first started cutting, back in the 1960’s, yes I am that old; I bought a number of booklets showing fancy cuts. Most of them took hours to cut, and for some, I had to construct strange devices to polish them. Also, remember, if you are cutting to sell your piece so you can afford to buy more material, time adds cost and strange shapes mean you will lose a lot more material – adding to material costs also.
3. Workmanship – Is the back of your cab flat? Do you have a reasonably narrow girdle? If it isn’t, you’ll have to adjust your design to support the irregularities. That will add to your fabrication time and the need and cost of purchasing more metal. For easier setting of fancy shapes that are thick, try making the setting deeper with an extra set of bezels.
4. Material – Is the stone brittle or otherwise delicate? Trust me – buy an extra piece. You never want to break a stone, but it happens. If I am in a good mood, some time I will tell the story of how I turned a 14 carat Kunzite into a 2 1/2 carat Kunzite. And, that nice 30×40 cab that I dropped on a concrete floor after polishing.
5. Cost – This, I believe is the most important factor of all – Does it fit your budget? Will it fit your customers’ budget when you’re done making the piece? If not, move on to more comfortable material. It’s not a good idea to buy a piece of rough material and then be afraid to cut it because you might make an error.
6. Skills – Do you have enough confidence or experience to set the stone you’re working with? It might be a good idea to practice with a less expensive stone – maybe quartz first, or second or third. By all means, buy that wonderful stone if it’s a good price, but realize practice makes perfect, and you might hold it for a while before you use it. You’ll know when you’re ready.
7. Color – Just because you like certain colors doesn’t mean everybody does. Sure, that blazing, hot pink drusy is just fantastic – but will your customers think so? If you plan to sell what you make, try to purchase raw material in many colors to offer choices to your customers. Look in some of the professional journals to see what colors are popular this season.
8. Supporting Cast – Don’t forget to buy smaller accent stones. It might seem boring to get a bunch of plain round, 3-5 mm stones, but at 3 a.m. on a Sunday morning, when you decide you need an accent stone to finish a pendant, you’ll be glad you have them on hand. Make a list and follow it. ((For myself, I try to keep about a dozen each of 1-3 mm accent stone – rubies, CZ’s, emeralds, sapphires, etc. on hand.))
9. Quantity – It often pays to purchase stones in quantity. If it’s material you love and your customers love it, buy enough to get a price break ((and also to make more later)). Ask the seller how much you need to buy to reach the price break and go for it. Sometimes you will be surprised that the discount pays for, or nearly pays for, the additional quantity.
10. Love Eternal – If you see something so fantastic you have to have it, if you can afford it, and will make a piece from it, even if it’s for yourself, buy it. The funny thing about gem material is that it is a limited commodity. You may never, ever see that kind of stone again, and regret really is a terrible thing. When I talk to people about cutting material I continuously emphasize this latter point. If you think you’ll be “haunted” by the rough to make a particular cab or faceted stone if you love it, buy it, and make a present for yourself.

Article written and submitted by:
Mike S. Hakulin Sr.
Copyright, 22 Feb 2009